Neri Agricola

The Neri family winery is in contrada Arrigo, Linguaglossa, on the northern side of Etna: nine hectares at six hundred metres, five of vines and four of olive groves, split between the Arrigo and Borrigliona districts. The vineyard grows the volcano's own varieties — Nerello Mascalese for the red, Carricante and Catarratto for the white — and among the olive trees the local Nocellara dell'Etna. Non-intensive growing, and everything picked by hand, grapes and olives alike.

The visit starts outside, among the rows and the olive trees with Etna in front of you, then moves into the old winery and the barrel cellar, where the wine ages with classical music playing — a family habit. It ends at the table, in a room with windows onto the vineyard: sourdough bread, cured meats and cheeses, vegetables in oil, the house oil and wines.

It runs every day, by reservation, and there is no minimum: two people are enough. These are the same wines you find on the table at Dodici Fontane, next door.