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Mandelsulz ist eine Süßspeise aus zerkleinerten Mandeln, Zucker und Gelatine. Im Wesentlichen handelt es sich um ein Gelee aus gesüßter Mandelmilch; in jüngeren Rezepten wird auch noch Schlagsahne untergehoben. Mandelsulz lässt sich außerdem in vielen Geschmacksrichtungen zubereiten, zum Beispiel mit pürierten Erdbeeren oder Himbeeren, Kaffee, Schokolade oder Pistazien.
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PAT · vom italienischen Landwirtschaftsministerium anerkanntes traditionelles Lebensmittel
The origins of the blancmange have long been believed to lie in the introduction of rice and almonds in early medieval Europe by Arab traders. Recently, it has been shown that there have been similar Arab dishes from that period such as muhallebi. Muhallebi, or another similar dish from the medieval Islamic world, spread to Europe first as blanc-manger in France, later translated to biancomangiare in Italy and manjar blanco in Spain. Additionally, related or similar dishes have existed in other areas of Europe under other names, such as the 13th-century Danish hwit moos ("white mush"), and the Anglo-Norman blanc desirree ("white dish"); Dutch calijs (from Latin colare, "to strain") was known in English as cullis and in French as coulis, and was based on cooked and then strained poultry. The oldest recipe for blancmange is from the oldest extant Danish cookbook, written by Henrik Harpestræng, who died in 1244, which dates it to the early 13th century at the latest. The work may be a translation of a German cookbook, which is believed to have been based on a Latin or Romance vernacular manuscript from the 12th century or even earlier.
The "whitedish" (from the original Old French term blanc manger) was a dish consumed by the upper-classes and common to most of Europe during the Middle Ages and early modern period. It occurs in countless variations from recipe collections from all over Europe and was one of the few truly international dishes of medieval and early modern Europe. It is mentioned in the prologue to Geoffrey Chaucer's Canterbury Tales and in an early 15th-century cookbook written by the chefs of Richard II. The basic ingredients were milk or almond milk, sugar, and shredded chicken (usually capon) or fish, often combined with rosewater and rice flour, and mixed into a bland stew. Almond milk and fish were used as substitutes for the other animal products on fast days and Lent. It was also often flavoured with spices such as saffron or cinnamon and the chicken could be exchanged for other fowl, such as quail or partridge. Spices were often used in recipes of the later Middle Ages since they were considered prestigious.
On festive occasions and among the upper classes, whitedishes were often rendered more festive by colouring agents: the reddish-golden yellow of saffron; green with various herbs; or sandalwood for russet. In 14th-century France, parti-colouring (the use of two bright contrasting colours on the same plate) was especially popular and was described by Guillaume Tirel (also known as Taillevent), one of the primary authors of the later editions of Le Viandier. The brightly coloured whitedishes were one of the most common of the early entremets: edibles that were intended to entertain and delight through a gaudy appearance as much as through flavour.
In the 17th century (1666), the durian fruit was compared to blanc-mangé by Alexandre de Rhodes:
il est plein d'une liqueur blanche, épaisse & sucrée : elle est entierement semblable au blanc-mangé, qu'on sert aux meilleures tables de France; c'est une chose fort saine, & des plus delicates qu'on puisse manger [It is full of a white liquor, thick and sweet, which is entirely similar to blanc-mangé, served at the best tables in France; it is a very healthy thing, and one of the most delicate things one can eat].
In the 17th century, the whitedish evolved into a meatless dessert pudding with cream and eggs, and later, gelatin. In the 19th century, arrowroot and cornflour were added, and the dish evolved into the modern blancmange.
The word blancmange derives from Old French blanc mangier. The name "whitedish" is a modern term used by some historians, though the name historically was either a direct translation from or a calque of the Old French term. Many different local or regional terms were used for the dish in the Middle Ages as translations of the French term:
Catalan: menjar blanch, menjar blanc, menjablanc
Portuguese: manjar branco
Italian: mangiare bianco, biancomangiare, blanmangieri, bramangere
Spanish: manjar blanco
Dutch/Flemish: blanc mengier
German: Blamensir
Latin: cibarium album
Though it is fairly certain that the etymology is indeed "white dish", medieval sources are not always consistent as to the actual colour of the dish. Food scholar Terence Scully has proposed the alternative etymology of bland mangier, "bland dish", reflecting its often mild and "dainty" (in this context meaning refined and aristocratic) taste and popularity as a dish for the sick.
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Auguste Escoffier beschreibt in seinem Mandelsulz-Rezept zuerst die Zubereitung der Mandelmilch: Man nehme 500 g süße Mandeln und 4–5 Bittermandeln. Die Mandeln werden gewässert und geputzt, dann zerstoßen, wobei löffelweise 0,8 l Wasser hinzugegeben werden. Die Masse wird unter Drehen durch ein Tuch gepresst, sodass etwa 0,7 l Mandelmilch entsteht. Es geht weiter mit der Beschreibung der Zubereitung des Mandelsulz: In der Mandelmilch werden 200 g Zucker aufgelöst. Anschließend wärmt man einen Teil des Sirups auf, löst 30 g Gelatine darin auf und gibt sie zu dem Mandelmilchsirup. Die Masse wird dann durch ein Musselintuch passiert, in eine Form gefüllt, gekühlt und gestürzt.
Mandelsulz lässt sich durch Zugabe von pürierten Früchten, Schokolade, Kaffee, Likör und anderen geschmacksgebenden Zutaten in vielen Geschmacksrichtungen abwandeln; auch können die Mandeln ganz oder teilweise durch Haselnüsse oder Pistazien ersetzt werden. Ist die Grundzubereitung tatsächlich noch von reiner weißer Farbe, so gilt das für die Varianten natürlich oftmals nicht mehr. Dennoch heißen auch sie Blancs-Mangers; die französische Bezeichnung wird nicht mehr wörtlich aufgefasst – selbst die farbenfrohe gebänderte Mandelsulz heißt französisch blanc-manger rubané.
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