法式奶凍 是一種用牛奶或鮮奶油和糖製成的甜點,以明膠、玉米澱粉或愛爾蘭苔 增稠,加入杏仁增添風味。
The origins of the blancmange have long been believed to lie in the introduction of rice and almonds in early medieval Europe by Arab traders. Recently, it has been shown that there have been similar Arab dishes from that period such as muhallebi. Muhallebi, or another similar dish from the medieval Islamic world, spread to Europe first as blanc-manger in France, later translated to biancomangiare in Italy and manjar blanco in Spain. Additionally, related or similar dishes have existed in other areas of Europe under other names, such as the 13th-century Danish hwit moos ("white mush"), and the Anglo-Norman blanc desirree ("white dish"); Dutch calijs (from Latin colare, "to strain") was known in English as cullis and in French as coulis, and was based on cooked and then strained poultry. The oldest recipe for blancmange is from the oldest extant Danish cookbook, written by Henrik Harpestræng, who died in 1244, which dates it to the early 13th century at the latest. The work may be a translation of a German cookbook, which is believed to have been based on a Latin or Romance vernacular manuscript from the 12th century or even earlier.
The "whitedish" (from the original Old French term blanc manger) was a dish consumed by the upper-classes and common to most of Europe during the Middle Ages and early modern period. It occurs in countless variations from recipe collections from all over Europe and was one of the few truly international dishes of medieval and early modern Europe. It is mentioned in the prologue to Geoffrey Chaucer's Canterbury Tales and in an early 15th-century cookbook written by the chefs of Richard II. The basic ingredients were milk or almond milk, sugar, and shredded chicken (usually capon) or fish, often combined with rosewater and rice flour, and mixed into a bland stew. Almond milk and fish were used as substitutes for the other animal products on fast days and Lent. It was also often flavoured with spices such as saffron or cinnamon and the chicken could be exchanged for other fowl, such as quail or partridge. Spices were often used in recipes of the later Middle Ages since they were considered prestigious.
On festive occasions and among the upper classes, whitedishes were often rendered more festive by colouring agents: the reddish-golden yellow of saffron; green with various herbs; or sandalwood for russet. In 14th-century France, parti-colouring (the use of two bright contrasting colours on the same plate) was especially popular and was described by Guillaume Tirel (also known as Taillevent), one of the primary authors of the later editions of Le Viandier. The brightly coloured whitedishes were one of the most common of the early entremets: edibles that were intended to entertain and delight through a gaudy appearance as much as through flavour.
In the 17th century (1666), the durian fruit was compared to blanc-mangé by Alexandre de Rhodes:
il est plein d'une liqueur blanche, épaisse & sucrée : elle est entierement semblable au blanc-mangé, qu'on sert aux meilleures tables de France; c'est une chose fort saine, & des plus delicates qu'on puisse manger [It is full of a white liquor, thick and sweet, which is entirely similar to blanc-mangé, served at the best tables in France; it is a very healthy thing, and one of the most delicate things one can eat].
In the 17th century, the whitedish evolved into a meatless dessert pudding with cream and eggs, and later, gelatin. In the 19th century, arrowroot and cornflour were added, and the dish evolved into the modern blancmange.
The word blancmange derives from Old French blanc mangier. The name "whitedish" is a modern term used by some historians, though the name historically was either a direct translation from or a calque of the Old French term. Many different local or regional terms were used for the dish in the Middle Ages as translations of the French term:
Catalan: menjar blanch, menjar blanc, menjablanc
Portuguese: manjar branco
Italian: mangiare bianco, biancomangiare, blanmangieri, bramangere
Spanish: manjar blanco
Dutch/Flemish: blanc mengier
German: Blamensir
Latin: cibarium album
Though it is fairly certain that the etymology is indeed "white dish", medieval sources are not always consistent as to the actual colour of the dish. Food scholar Terence Scully has proposed the alternative etymology of bland mangier, "bland dish", reflecting its often mild and "dainty" (in this context meaning refined and aristocratic) taste and popularity as a dish for the sick.
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法式奶凍的起源不明,某些人認為這道菜是阿拉伯人發明的,他們在中世紀早期,將米和杏仁引進歐洲。 但沒有證據能支持這項說法,因為當時沒有類似型態的阿拉伯菜;儘管與阿拉伯的「穆哈列比」 有些相似,但它本身的起源未定,無法成為證據。歐洲各地都有名字很像的菜餚,例如義大利的「biancomangiare」 和西班牙的「manjar blanco」 。此外,也有型態也很像的菜餚,但名字不一樣,例如13世紀丹麥的「 hwit moos (白糊)」 ,盎格魯-諾曼的「blanc desirree(敘利亞的白色菜餚)」 ;荷蘭的『 calijs (拉丁文的「colare」 ,過濾)』,英文稱「cullis」;法文稱「coulis」 ,意指烹煮禽肉後過濾得到的湯汁。至今最古老的法式奶凍食譜是丹麥語的著作,作者是1244年去世的Henrik Harpestræng,由此可以推知,至少在13世紀早期就有這道菜了。這本丹麥食譜可能譯自一本蒐集了12世紀甚至更早期流傳下來的拉丁文或羅曼語地方話抄本的德文食譜集。
在中世紀歐洲至近世 ,「白色菜餚」 (古法語「blanc mangier」)在上流階層的餐桌很常見。當時歐洲有各式各樣的數不清的食譜和烹飪變化,堪稱國際名菜。不僅在傑弗里·喬叟的《坎特伯雷故事集》開頭就提到這道菜,15世紀早期理查二世的廚子也把法式奶凍收錄在食譜裡。 基本的材料有:牛奶或杏仁奶、糖和雞肉絲(常用閹雞)或魚,與玫瑰水和磨成粉的米混合燉煮。杏仁奶和魚可以取代其它齋戒和大齋期不能吃的動物製品。調味時常用番紅花或肉桂這類香料,雞肉改用其它禽類如:鵪鶉或鷓鴣。古代的香料十分珍貴,因此中世紀晚期很常添加香料到菜餚裡。
上流社會或節慶場合,人們會用染劑將白色菜餚染成各種顏色:番紅花可以染成金黃帶紅的顏色;很多種香草可以將菜餚染成綠色;使用檀木可以染成赤褐色。紀堯姆·泰勒(又名Taillevent ),在後期版的Le Viandier記述了法國在14世紀時,特別流行把盤中菜餚染成兩種對比的鮮豔顏色。染成斑斕色彩的白色菜餚是早期最常見的甜點,這些食物不只美味,更以花俏的外表使用餐更具娛樂性。17世紀(1666),亞歷山大·德·羅德(Alexandre de Rhodes)將榴槤和法式奶凍相提並論:il est plein d'une liqueur blanche, épaisse & sucrée : elle est entierement semblable au blanc-mangé , qu'on sert aux meilleures tables de France; c'est une chose fort saine, & des plus delicates qu'on puisse manger (榴槤那白色香甜的汁液與法國高級餐桌上的法式奶凍幾乎一模一樣:這是人人可食最美味又健康的食品) (页面存档备份,存于互联网档案馆)
17世紀時,這種白色的菜餚演化為不含肉的甜點布丁,鮮奶油、蛋,之後添加明膠。19世紀,改加葛鬱金太白粉(arrowroot )和玉米澱粉,這道菜終於變成現代的法式奶凍了。
法式布丁的名稱源自古法語「blanc mangier」;「白色菜餚(whitedish)」一詞,則是現代一些歷史學家直譯或借譯自古法語的說法。中世紀時期各地都有類似的詞彙稱呼這道菜:
英語:blancmanger, blankmanger, blank maunger, blomanger, blamang
加泰隆尼亞語:menjar blanch, menjar blanc, menjablanc
葡萄牙語:manjar branco
義大利語:mangiare bianco, biancomangiare, blanmangieri, bramangere
西班牙語:manjar blanco
荷蘭/佛萊明語:blanc mengier
德語:Blamensir
拉丁語:albus cibus, esus albus
雖然菜名顯然是「白色菜餚」,但中世紀的資料顯示,這道菜不一定真如其名是白色的。食物學家泰倫斯·史卡利(Terence Scully)提出另一個詞源是「bland mangier」,亦即「混和菜餚」,反映這道菜溫和且「精緻(精心製作、高貴的)」的滋味,並常用來當作病人的食物。
來源
Food in the Middle Ages: A Book of Essays (1995) edited by Melitta Weiss Adamson ISBN 0-8153-1345-4
Ossa, Germán Patiño (2007). Fogón de negros: cocina y cultura en una región latinoamericana. (页面存档备份,存于互联网档案馆)
Scully, Terence (1995), The Art of Cookery in the Middle Ages. ISBN 0-85115-611-8ISBN 0-85115-611-8
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