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Le blanc-manger est une sorte de gelée à base d'amandes, déjà confectionnée au Moyen Âge, devenu à l'époque moderne un entremets sucré, traditionnellement à base de lait, d'amandes ou de riz voire d'ingrédients exotiques (coco), qui est bouilli et donne une sorte de pudding ou de flan caractérisé par sa blancheur ivoire. Il se distingue de la panna cotta et du fromage bavarois d'Antonin Carême faits à base de crème et de gélatine. Dans la pratique, il est fréquent que les deux terminologies soient confondues et beaucoup de recettes empruntent à l'un et à l'autre de ces entremets.
Mariages et fêtes de famille
PAT · produit agroalimentaire traditionnel reconnu par le ministère italien de l’Agriculture
The origins of the blancmange have long been believed to lie in the introduction of rice and almonds in early medieval Europe by Arab traders. Recently, it has been shown that there have been similar Arab dishes from that period such as muhallebi. Muhallebi, or another similar dish from the medieval Islamic world, spread to Europe first as blanc-manger in France, later translated to biancomangiare in Italy and manjar blanco in Spain. Additionally, related or similar dishes have existed in other areas of Europe under other names, such as the 13th-century Danish hwit moos ("white mush"), and the Anglo-Norman blanc desirree ("white dish"); Dutch calijs (from Latin colare, "to strain") was known in English as cullis and in French as coulis, and was based on cooked and then strained poultry. The oldest recipe for blancmange is from the oldest extant Danish cookbook, written by Henrik Harpestræng, who died in 1244, which dates it to the early 13th century at the latest. The work may be a translation of a German cookbook, which is believed to have been based on a Latin or Romance vernacular manuscript from the 12th century or even earlier.
The "whitedish" (from the original Old French term blanc manger) was a dish consumed by the upper-classes and common to most of Europe during the Middle Ages and early modern period. It occurs in countless variations from recipe collections from all over Europe and was one of the few truly international dishes of medieval and early modern Europe. It is mentioned in the prologue to Geoffrey Chaucer's Canterbury Tales and in an early 15th-century cookbook written by the chefs of Richard II. The basic ingredients were milk or almond milk, sugar, and shredded chicken (usually capon) or fish, often combined with rosewater and rice flour, and mixed into a bland stew. Almond milk and fish were used as substitutes for the other animal products on fast days and Lent. It was also often flavoured with spices such as saffron or cinnamon and the chicken could be exchanged for other fowl, such as quail or partridge. Spices were often used in recipes of the later Middle Ages since they were considered prestigious.
On festive occasions and among the upper classes, whitedishes were often rendered more festive by colouring agents: the reddish-golden yellow of saffron; green with various herbs; or sandalwood for russet. In 14th-century France, parti-colouring (the use of two bright contrasting colours on the same plate) was especially popular and was described by Guillaume Tirel (also known as Taillevent), one of the primary authors of the later editions of Le Viandier. The brightly coloured whitedishes were one of the most common of the early entremets: edibles that were intended to entertain and delight through a gaudy appearance as much as through flavour.
In the 17th century (1666), the durian fruit was compared to blanc-mangé by Alexandre de Rhodes:
il est plein d'une liqueur blanche, épaisse & sucrée : elle est entierement semblable au blanc-mangé, qu'on sert aux meilleures tables de France; c'est une chose fort saine, & des plus delicates qu'on puisse manger [It is full of a white liquor, thick and sweet, which is entirely similar to blanc-mangé, served at the best tables in France; it is a very healthy thing, and one of the most delicate things one can eat].
In the 17th century, the whitedish evolved into a meatless dessert pudding with cream and eggs, and later, gelatin. In the 19th century, arrowroot and cornflour were added, and the dish evolved into the modern blancmange.
The word blancmange derives from Old French blanc mangier. The name "whitedish" is a modern term used by some historians, though the name historically was either a direct translation from or a calque of the Old French term. Many different local or regional terms were used for the dish in the Middle Ages as translations of the French term:
Catalan: menjar blanch, menjar blanc, menjablanc
Portuguese: manjar branco
Italian: mangiare bianco, biancomangiare, blanmangieri, bramangere
Spanish: manjar blanco
Dutch/Flemish: blanc mengier
German: Blamensir
Latin: cibarium album
Though it is fairly certain that the etymology is indeed "white dish", medieval sources are not always consistent as to the actual colour of the dish. Food scholar Terence Scully has proposed the alternative etymology of bland mangier, "bland dish", reflecting its often mild and "dainty" (in this context meaning refined and aristocratic) taste and popularity as a dish for the sick.
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À l'origine, le blanc-manger est un mets associé aux viandes blanches (le blanc de volaille) et constitué d'un mélange de produits uniquement blancs, soit en particulier amandes blanches, riz et lait. Le terme, au XVIIe siècle, évolua vers un mets salé davantage sucré, malgré un certain usage, au XVIIIe siècle, pour désigner un mets exclusivement salé.
Recette médiévale selon Taillevent
Guillaume Tirel dit Taillevent (cuisinier français de la fin du XIVe siècle) serait l'auteur du Viandier, livre lui-même issu du manuscrit de Sion, daté de la seconde moitié du XIIIe siècle. Sa recette est un accompagnement, sous forme de bouillie gélifiée, des viandes blanches et sera coloré en deux couleurs (blanc et vert) voire trois (bleu) ou quatre.
« Prenez amandes echaudées et pelées, et les broyer très bien, et les deffaictes d'eau boullie; puis, pour faire la lieure pour les lier, faut avoir du riz batu ou de l'amidon. Et quand son lait aura boulie, le fault partir en plusieurs parties, en deux potz, qui ne veult faire que de deux couleurs, et, qui le veult, faire en trois ou quatre parties; et convient qu'il soit fort lié autant que seront froumentée, tant qu'il ne se puisse reprendre quant il sera drecié ou plat ou en l'escuelle; puis prenez orcanet, ou tornesot, ou asur fin, ou persil, ou salmonde, ou ung petit de saffren coulé avec la verdure, affin qu'il tienge mieux sa couleur quant il sera boullu ; et convient avoir du sang de porc et mettre tremper dedans l'orcanet ou tournesot, et l'azur pareillement. Et jetez du sucre dedans le lait quand il bouira, pour tirer arrière, et le salez, et remuez fort, tant qu'il soit renforcy et est prins sa couleur telle que lui voudrez donner. »
Blanc-manger royal
On servait à Louis XII un blanc-manger sucré, estimé comme somptueux,…
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