Volcanic soil is the reason everything here tastes louder. The vineyards on the north slope make the Etna DOC wines, Bronte grows a pistachio that exists nowhere else in the same way, and the sea below supplies the fish markets that open before dawn. The good tables are often the ones without a website — which is exactly why they belong in a catalogue.
Cellar visits on the slopes are the anchor of a day: vines on black soil, old bush-trained vineyards, and the summit above the glass.
Catania’s fish market is at its best early in the morning, and it is a place to walk through before it is a place to buy from.
Harvest is late here — the altitude pushes it into autumn, which is the best month to eat on the mountain.
De catalogus is open maar wordt nog gevuld, één bedrijf tegelijk, met de hand. Als je iets rond de Etna runt, is dit het moment om bij de eersten te zijn.